How to select the right brow pigments for your clients? Finding out your client’s undertone.
Colour theory plays a pivotal role in the art and science of permanent makeup, particularly when selecting brow pigments to complement an individual's undertones. Warm, cool, and neutral undertones are key considerations in this process. Warm undertones are characterized by hints of yellow, peach, or golden tones in the skin. For clients with warm undertones, brow pigments with cool, earthy tones like ash brown or neutral tones are recommended to harmonize with their natural colouring. Conversely, individuals with cool undertones, marked by undertones of blue, pink, or purple, benefit from brow pigments in warmer or neutral shades to balance out the cool undertones. Lastly, for those with neutral undertones, a versatile range of brow pigments can be employed, including medium browns and soft caramels, as they don't lean strongly towards warm or cool tones. Understanding and applying these principles of colour theory ensures that permanent makeup artists can enhance their clients' features in a way that complements their unique skin undertones, resulting in natural and harmonious results.
It’s important to consider that skin tone and undertone are not the same. A client may have a beauty golden tone and appear to have a warm undertone but is actually cool or neutral. That’s why it's very crucial to assess the client’s skin undertone to correctly identify the ideal eyebrow pigments in order for the cosmetic brow tattoo to heal to beautifully.
How to find client’s skin undertone?
There are two simple ways:
Veins - Look at veins on their forearm. If their veins appear to be green, the clients have a warm undertone. If their veins are blue/purple, they have a cool undertone. If their veins are a combination of both green and blue/purple, then they are neutral undertone.
How do they tan? If they burn easily and rarely tan, they are a cool undertone. If they burn first then tan, they could be either cool or neutral. If they never burn and tan easily, they are a warm undertone.
Now that you have their skin undertone, the next time is to determine where they are on the Fitzpatrick scale. The Fitzpatrick Scale is a classification system used in dermatology to categorize different skin types based on their response to ultraviolet (UV) light. It is widely employed in various fields, including permanent makeup, to assess the skin's pigmentation and sensitivity. When determining brow pigments, considering the Fitzpatrick Scale is crucial because it helps practitioners tailor their approach to each individual's skin characteristics.
Different skin types react differently to pigments, and the Fitzpatrick Scale takes into account factors such as skin tone, sensitivity to sunlight, and propensity to tan or burn. Using this scale allows permanent makeup artists to choose brow pigments that will complement the client's natural skin color and minimize the risk of undesired color changes or reactions. For instance, individuals with lighter skin tones (Fitzpatrick Types I and II) may require softer, neutral/warmer pigments, while those with darker skin tones (Fitzpatrick Types V and VI) may benefit from bolder, neutral/cooler shades. By incorporating the Fitzpatrick Scale into the decision-making process, artists can achieve more accurate and personalized results, ensuring that the chosen brow pigments harmonize seamlessly with the client's unique skin characteristics.
FITZPATRICK SCALE